The Por Tor Festival: Celebrating Phuket’s Unique Blend of Tradition and Spirituality
The Por Tor Festival, more commonly known as the Hungry Ghost Festival, is one of Phuket’s most vibrant and culturally significant events. Deeply rooted in the traditions of Phuket’s Hokkien Chinese community, this month-long celebration is a time to honor the spirits of the deceased, offering a fascinating glimpse into the rich tapestry of beliefs that shape life on this island. Held annually in August or September. Held annually in August or September, this year’s festival runs from August 16th to September 2nd. The festival marks a period when it is believed that the gates of hell open, allowing hungry ghosts to roam the living world in search of sustenance and solace. This belief is central to the rituals and customs that make the Por Tor Festival such a unique and meaningful event.
The Por Tor Festival is not just a time for remembrance; it is also a vital merit-making event for Phuket’s ethnic Chinese population. The festival revolves around the offering of special foods, flowers, and candles to ancestors at altars, a practice that underscores the deep sense of family obligation and respect that remains a cornerstone of Chinese culture. However, the festival’s significance extends beyond honoring one’s ancestors. Offerings are also made to “feed the ghosts without relatives”—those restless spirits who have no living descendants to care for them. It is believed that these spirits, who are released from hell for the month, can cause mischief or bring bad luck if they are not appeased with proper offerings.
Visitors to Phuket during the Por Tor Festival are in for a sensory treat. The island’s Chinese shrines, particularly the Seng Tek Bel Shrine (also known as Por Tor Kong Shrine), become the epicenters of activity. Located next to Bann Bang Neow School, the Seng Tek Bel Shrine hosts the festival for seven days and seven nights, making it the heart of the celebration. Most other shrines across Phuket only observe the festival for a couple of days, making the Seng Tek Bel Shrine a must-visit location for anyone looking to fully experience the event.
Thalang Road and its surrounding areas also buzz with energy during the festival. From noon until midnight, the whole area transforms into a colorful and lively scene filled with traditional merit-making ceremonies, lion dances, magic shows, live concerts, cabaret performances, and an array of other stage shows. The air is filled with the sounds of celebration, and the streets are lined with food stands offering a chance to sample a variety of Chinese-influenced local dishes at very reasonable prices.
One of the most visually striking aspects of the festival is the parade. Schoolchildren and local residents dress in their finest traditional costumes, with many girls donning bright red cheongsams (Chinese-style dresses) and carrying flowers, turtle cakes, and fruits to the shrines. These parades are not just about pageantry; they are a way for the community to come together and collectively honor the spirits, ensuring that both the living and the dead are remembered during this important time.
Among the various offerings made during the Por Tor Festival, the red turtle cake (known as ang ku in Hokkien dialect) holds special significance. These cakes, made from flour and sugar, are fashioned in the shape of turtles and are typically red in color—a hue associated with good luck in Chinese culture. The turtle, a symbol of strength and longevity in Chinese folklore, is believed to bring good fortune to those who offer it. By presenting red turtle cakes at the altars, devotees are not only making a gesture of respect toward their ancestors but are also invoking blessings of longevity and prosperity for themselves and their families.
The red turtle cakes are more than just symbolic offerings; they are a tangible link to the past, a way of connecting with the generations that have come before. The cakes are available in various sizes, with some reaching impressive proportions. During the festival, these cakes can be found in shops all over Phuket Town, serving as both a delicious treat and a meaningful token of cultural continuity.
For those seeking a deeper understanding of the Por Tor Festival, a visit to the Por Tor Gong Shrine in Phuket Town is essential. This shrine, dedicated to the Por Tor god—revered as the king of hell—is a focal point of the festival’s activities. The shrine is adorned with intricate wooden panels and ornate artworks that depict the punishments awaiting those who have committed grave sins. A foreboding statue of the Por Tor god stands as a reminder of his role as a stern and vengeful judge in the afterlife.
Despite its relatively small size, the Por Tor Gong Shrine plays a pivotal role in the Hungry Ghost Festival. Visitors are welcome to explore the shrine, and locals are often on hand to explain the rituals and significance of the festival. However, it is important to remember that the shrine is a place of worship, and visitors should dress respectfully and behave with the appropriate decorum.
No festival is complete without food, and the Por Tor Festival is no exception. In addition to the red turtle cakes, a variety of traditional foods are offered at the Chinese shrines, including whole roasted ducks, bags of rice, and an assortment of fresh local fruits and vegetables. In some cases, unopened bottles of whiskey or other alcoholic beverages are left as offerings, a gesture intended to placate the hungry ghosts and ensure that they do not go thirsty during their brief sojourn in the world of the living.
For food lovers, the festival is a chance to experience the rich culinary heritage of Phuket’s Hokkien community. The dishes on offer during the Por Tor Festival are a testament to the island’s unique blend of cultural influences, and the festival provides an opportunity to sample flavors that are both traditional and distinctive to this part of the world.
The Por Tor Festival is more than just a religious observance; it is a celebration of life, death, and the enduring bonds that connect the past with the present. Through its rituals, offerings, and community activities, the festival serves as a reminder of the importance of family, tradition, and respect for those who have come before us. For visitors to Phuket, the Por Tor Festival offers a rare and enriching glimpse into the island’s cultural soul, making it an experience not to be missed. Whether you are drawn by the spectacle of the parades, the symbolism of the red turtle cakes, or the spiritual atmosphere of the Chinese shrines, the Por Tor Festival is an event that promises to leave a lasting impression on all who attend.
